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Task – Ride The Waves

Task – Ride The Waves


  1. Which of the following is true of swell?
    • found in the area of the wind that generated it found far away from wind that generated it caused by wind
    • caused by earthquakes presents as multiple wave trains
    • single wave train
  • Which of these are restoring forces.
    • gravitational forces between Earth and Moon
    • Earth’s gravity earthquakes
    • landslides
    • surface tension
    • wind
  • Which of the following are possible generating force(s) for waves.
    • gravitational forces between Earth and Moon |
    • Earth’s gravity
    • earthquakes
    • landslides
    • surface tension
    • wind
  • Which of these forces restores a capillary wave.
    • gravitational forces between Earth and Moon
    • Earth’s gravity earthquakes
    • landslides
    • surface tension
    • wind
  • Which of these forces generates a capillary wave.
    • gravitational forces between Earth and Moon
    • Earth’s gravity earthquakes
    • landslides
    • surface tension
    • wind
  • Which of the following is true of an internal wave?
    • Found at surface
    • Found along pycnoclines
    • Found along seafloor
  • Using Figure 1, label crest, trough, equilibrium surface, height, and wavelength.


    Figure 1.
    Parts of a wave.

  • What are the number of wavelengths shown in the image above?
  • Which of the following would be considered a standing wave?
    • Tsunami
    • Swell
    • Chop
    • Seiche
    • Tides
  • Which of the following would be considered a progressive wave?
    • Tsunami
    • Swell
    • Chop
    • Seiche
    • Tides
  • Give equation for wave base and describe how it is measured.
  • If a wave has a wave length of 30 m, what is the wave base depth?
  • If 4 wave lengths pass a point in 2 minutes, what is the wave period?
  • How fast do tsunami travel?
  • What’s the average period of a tsunami?
  • What’s the average wavelength of a tsunami?
  • With a period of 10 seconds and a wavelength of 50 m, what is the wave speed?
  • What happens to wave speed after a wave feels bottom and approaches shore?
  • What happens to wave height after a wave feels bottom and approaches shore?
  • What happens to wave length after a wave feels bottom and approaches shore?
  • What happens to wave period after a wave feels bottom and approaches shore?
  • At what ocean depths is a 30-m wave length wave considered a deep water wave?
  • At what ocean depths is a 30-m wave length wave considered NOT a deep water wave?
  • Which types of waves have the potential to have the largest height?
  • Which of the following would be considered a deep-water wave in the open ocean?
    • Tsunami
    • Swell
    • Chop
    • Seiche in Pool/Lagoon/Bay
  • Which of the following will increase wind wave height in the open ocean?
    • Strong winds
    • Moderate winds
    • Weak winds
  • As a result, where in the world’s oceans do we get the largest open ocean wind waves? Why?
  • What type of interference causes rogue waves?
    • constructive
    • destructive
  • Which direction does a rip current move? (Hint: time to do some outside research):
    • along the shore
    • towards the shore
    • away from the shore
  • What causes rip currents?
    • jetty
    • headland
    • two longshore currents colliding
    • wave direction
  • Can they be predicted? Explain.
  • Which direction does a longshorecurrentmove?
    • along the shore
    • towards the shore
    • away from the shore
  • What cause(s) longshore currents?
    • jetty
    • headland
    • two longshore currents colliding
    • wave direction
  • Which of the following is true for tsunami (pick all that apply):
    • deep-water wave
    • shallow-water wave
    • produced by earthquakes
    • produced by landslides
    • produced by strong winds
    • considered a rogue (episodic) wave
    • considered a standing wave
    • considered a progressive wave
  • What’s the average height of a tsunami in the open ocean?
  • Are tsunami dangerous in the open sea? What happens when they reach shore?
  • Which types of waves have the smallest wavelength, height, and period? (Check the Log Book)
  • Which types of waves have the largest wavelength? (Check the Log Book)
  • Which types of waves have the longest period? (Check the Log Book)
  • Where is your Pirate Ship headed? (Check the Chapter 2 introduction). What are the coordinates of the landmark?
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    Task – Ride The Waves was first posted on July 12, 2019 at 2:48 pm.